Thursday, March 11, 2010

Montecalvello Day Trip

After two months of bliss we decided to give up the absolute best parking space
in the center of Rome.

This was a big deal. To have a parking place that is positioned in such a way as
to preclude sideswiping, mirror breaking, scratching, denting,graffiti spraying
and outright stealing is something to regard with awe and reverence, especially
because it's highly unlikely we'll EVER get that parking space AGAIN! So, as we
drove away from this hallowed piece of ground The Man turned around in his
seat and waved goodbye saying, "Farewell good little parking spot. We'll
remember you well."

It was kind of a weepy moment.

Then, off we bumbled in our little car, into the northern countryside of the
Umbrian hills where we ended up in this small village called Montecalvello,
which boasts a population of 84 citizens. But, what they lack in citizenry, they
make up for in Castlery.

The Castello di Montecalvello dates
from 774-776, a time when guys like
Charlemagne were running around
conquering the known world and
women stayed inside near the fire
because everything was freezing,
not to mention filthy...oh, and for a
good time they all went to church to
gaze at the psychedelic stained glass
windows, the equivalent of today's 3D,
unless, of course, you were a peasant
which is an entirely different depressing
story.

The Castello was enhanced over the
following centuries, and changed hands
frequently, depending on which way the political winds blew.

Balthasar Klossowski (aka Balthus), an artist of some renown, bought the place
in the 1970's and restored much of the castle. Today it is owned by his son who
graciously allows visitors to roam about the grounds. (Actually, I'm only assuming
he's gracious about it. I mean, I really don't know. Maybe he hates people walking
around on his property and stands inside, under the ancient, frescoed ceilings
screaming epithets at the bumpkins below. However, I can say that on the day we
were there, I heard no screaming.)

In this photo of the entrance
you'll notice the circular red
sign with the white horizontal
slash. This sign totally spoils
the view, and is, unfortunately,
typical Italian signage. In this
case, the sign is posted to keep
people from driving their cars
onto the castle grounds.I mean,
you'd have to be a complete
nullard to think that driving your
car through that ancient gateway
would be an okay thing to do. But, evidently, there is a nullard surplus in the area (Oh, I'm
so shocked!) that the castle owner had to put up a sign. Too bad.

In the middle ages when this castle was in the hands of the Monaldeschi clan (who
were NOT known for their diplomatic skills) they would have captured the errant
driver, impaled him on a spike and stuck him on the ramparts, leaving him there
to rot in the breeze as a warning to all future dumbbells.

Impaling. It wasn't pretty, but it worked.

I guess it's where the expression "I get your point!" came from.

Anyway, here's a short slide show of Il Castello Di Montecalvello


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3 comments:

Annie said...

I like the archways! It's a shame you couldn't go inside the rooms. Signage is always annoying at historic places.

Waiting for the Big Giant said...

Going inside would have been great. Instead, I had to settle for a video I found on YouTube: www.youtube.comwatch?v=JLPXuVFn_Kc

Thanks for your comment.

Annie said...

Thanks for the link. I found it by searching the code. I like the frescoes, the open veranda, the heavy wooden doors, the odd surprises, and the textured brick floors. It's a shame some of it is in ruins, but in a way, that adds to the charm.