Two Poles

Here's a photo of Captain Z. and The Man.

Capt. Z and his wife Iwona travelled from their home in Poland to the town of Monopoli, Italy to visit their son who is attending school in nearby Bari. We were fortunate to be able to spend a delightful Easter weekend with them.

Zdzichu picked us up on Good Friday at the Bari airport and drove us back to our Bed & Breakfast, located in the historical center of Monopoli. Zdzichu and Iwona had rented an house nearby. Our room was located in a grand, old apartment with 20 foot ceilings and beautifully tiled floors. We also had a balcony that overlooked the quaint stone street below. It was really unique. (We had a great time the first night because we were the only renters in the apartment. But on the second night a family of about eight people moved into the adjoining four rooms and took over the place. What a racket! At 2:00 a.m.!!! But, I'm sure we woke them up the next morning, so we were even.)

Anyway, that evening, Zdzichu, Iwona, The Man and I attended the "Venerdi Sante" (Holy Friday) procession, where this photo was taken. We met up with the Captain and Iwona in a piazza and The Man had bought a ham sandwich (for both of us, I must admit!) prior to their arrival. The Captain arrived, saw The Man holding the sandwich, and reminded The Man that we don't eat meat on Good Friday. Argh!

So, Zdziche, Iwona and the two pagan-meat-on-friday-eaters, joined the citizens of Monopoli in front of an old cathedral (of which there were several - all amazingly beautiful) and watched as the statues of Jesus in agony, representing the "Stations of the Cross" passed out of the church, held on platforms by bearers dressed in various costumes. A band played sad dirges and the crowd fell silent. It was a spectacle of sadness and unity, very solumn.

We had a wonderful weekend walking around the old port town of Monopoli, on the crystal clear, tourquoise blue Adriatic Sea. We walked along the ancient sea wall, the stone buildings that have housed generations of fishermen, saw the boats and talked to the very friendly people. There was an outdoor market full of the freshest vegetables of the season, huge artichokes, bunches of chickory and asparagus, tomatoes and fava beans in the shell. There were vendors calling out for us to buy their selections of fresh fish, mussels and sea creatures. And, there were the olive and nut salesmen. The Man bought a huge bag of pistaccio nuts and water-soaked chestnuts that were to die for. He also got a bag of fresh fava beans that had been soaked in a barrel of salt water. Oh my! Good as good can get.

Zdzichu and Iwona provided us with delicious meals. They had brought a carload of food with them from Poland, many traditional Easter foods, ham and sausages, fish, eggs and cheese, cakes and sweets. We ate well (too much!) and enjoyed every bit of it.

It was a great time and we are indepted to Capt. Z & Co. for making our visit to this extraordinary place so memorable.